Leonard Bernstein referred to her as “The Bible of Opera,” while Yves Saint Laurent called her the “Diva of Divas.” Critics dubbed her “La Divina,” or “The Divine One.” In the new film by Pablo Larraín, featuring Angelina Jolie, Maria Callas is simply known as “Maria.”
Maria Callas, considered one of the greatest opera singers of all time, was born in New York City in 1923 to Greek immigrant parents. She made her professional debut in Athens in 1941 and, by 1951, had performed in nearly all of Italy’s major opera houses. Her notable performances include Giacomo Puccini’s “Tosca,” Vincenzo Bellini’s “Norma,” and Giuseppe Verdi’s “La Traviata.”
With a complex personal life and a distinctive fashion sense, Callas’ fame transcended the opera scene, capturing new audiences and the attention of fashion designers. She often made headlines due to her highly publicized love affair with Greek shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis while still married to Giovanni Battista Meneghini. Throughout this time, she was frequently photographed in elegantly tailored dresses, glamorous evening gowns, and stunning jewelry.
Callas collaborated closely with Milanese dressmaker Madame Biki, who contributed significantly to her status as a style icon by numbering outfits and accessories for coordination. Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent also admired and worked with Callas. Saint Laurent, who became a close friend of hers while they mingled in high-society circles in the late 1950s, attended her first recital in Paris at the Opéra Garnier in 1958.
Monica Bellucci wore a dress designed by Saint Laurent in Tom Volf’s production “Maria Callas: Letters and Memoirs,” which ran from 2019 to 2023. Bellucci expressed her amazement at the experience, saying, “To put this dress on gave me the sensation that I was in touch with her in some way.”
Upon arriving at the 2024 Venice Film Festival for the film’s premiere, Jolie honored Callas’ connection with Saint Laurent by donning an ensemble from his fashion house. Callas epitomized Old Hollywood glamour, often accessorizing with gloves, feathered fans, fur coats, and dramatic hats, enhancing her diva persona. Designers like Valentino, Dolce & Gabbana, Stéphane Rolland, Burberry, and John Galliano have all drawn inspiration from her in their works.
In 2007, a Swarovski exhibit celebrated Callas’ relationship with jewelry, highlighting her superstitious nature, with Markus Langes-Swarovski noting that she felt more secure with her talismans. In 2020, Burberry’s Riccardo Tisci designed costumes inspired by Callas for Marina Abramović’s opera project “7 Deaths of Maria Callas.” Additionally, the Victoria & Albert Museum featured Callas in their “Diva” exhibition in 2023.
Erdem recently channeled Callas’ aesthetic in its fall 2024 ready-to-wear collection titled “Viva la Diva,” exploring both her private and public life. Larraín’s film “Maria” offers a creative interpretation and psychological portrait of Callas during a challenging time when she lost her voice. The film premiered at the Venice Film Festival on Thursday and is set to be released on Netflix at an unspecified future date.