The Hermès Haut à Courroies (HAC) bag, a unique piece of fashion history gifted by Serge Gainsbourg to Jane Birkin, is set to go under the hammer at Christie’s Paris this November. This exquisite artifact not only symbolizes the love affair between two cultural icons but also represents the precursor to the renowned Birkin bag, a staple in luxury fashion.
The anticipation surrounding the auction is palpable among collectors and fashion historians alike. The HAC bag encapsulates a narrative steeped in romance and artistic freedom, marking the foundation of a design that has come to epitomize luxury itself. With its deeply rooted history and unmistakable influence on modern design, this sale stands as a pivotal moment that transcends mere auctioning of an item.
Initially crafted by Hermès in the early 1900s for equestrian purposes, the HAC was designed as a functional holdall capable of carrying riding gear. Its robust leather structure, elegant boxy form, and ample capacity perfectly expressed the high-quality craftsmanship for which Hermès is famed. Yet, this particular bag carries an intimate backstory, having been a gift from Gainsbourg to Birkin during the early days of their relationship. Gainsbourg, a revolutionary figure in French music, and Birkin, part actress, and singer, wove a profound bond that captured the cultural sensibilities of their time.
Birkin often took her HAC bag along on her various escapades, making it an extension of her effortless and bohemian style. Noteworthy is the incident when her bag spilled its contents on a plane, leading her to collaborate with Hermès to create the more practical Birkin bag. This transition from HAC to Birkin signifies not only an evolution in design but a remarkable story of love and creativity that continues to resonate.
The upcoming auction at Christie’s represents a significant point in the narrative of fashion history. It highlights the connection between personal stories and the evolution of iconic items. The sale is expected to draw comparisons to the recent record-setting auction of a Birkin prototype, which reaffirmed the value and desirability of Hermès creations. While the HAC may not reach those financial heights, its importance is undeniably profound, standing as a testament to its role in the luxury fashion narrative.
Christie’s has planned a comprehensive preview of the HAC bag, allowing enthusiasts in Hong Kong, Paris, and Bangkok to appreciate the bag’s historical weight before it is sold on November 6, 2025. Each city’s exhibition celebrates not only the luxury of the item but also the universality of the love story it encompasses, bringing attention to how the HAC transcends borders much like Gainsbourg and Birkin’s artistic influence.
The legacy of Gainsbourg and Birkin has permeated far beyond their creative outputs, marking a significant cultural shift that continues to affect fashion, music, and art. Their partnership, steeped in passion and intellect, is mirrored in the complexities of the HAC bag. This imminent auction allows collectors to engage with history, acquiring not just a luxury item but a piece of the poignant narrative that has shaped contemporary aesthetics.
As Christie’s prepares to present this iconic bag, the auction becomes a moment of reflection on creativity, love, and the human experiences that forge unforgettable connections. Winning this remarkable piece means possessing a fragment of cultural history—a reminder of the intersection of artistry and authenticity, embodied in the love between two high-profile creative figures. This event stands to reinforce the notion that true artistry is both timeless and deeply personal, transcending the allure of transient luxury.