My experience on Viking River Cruises’ “Portugal’s River of Gold” highlighted the stunning beauty of the Douro River Valley along with the rich cultures of Portugal and Spain. I sailed aboard the Viking Torgil, a ship specifically designed for the Douro River, with a capacity for 106 guests and 33 crew members. The Torgil boasts modern engineering, comfortable lodgings, and Scandinavian-style decor, all complemented by views of the river from my 185 sq. ft. veranda suite.
The itinerary included a cultural enrichment program featuring guest speakers, regionally inspired menus crafted by master chefs, and various forms of entertainment. I participated in classes on the Portuguese language, wine tasting, and the art of preparing pastel de nata, the famous Portuguese custard tarts.
This cruise provided an immersive experience into the historical and cultural tapestry of Portugal and Spain. Viking’s excursions covered significant locations, including Lisbon’s maritime past, Coimbra’s medieval university, and the winemaking traditions of the Douro Valley. Each day presented new discoveries, ranging from Porto’s vibrant streets to Pinhão’s vineyards and Salamanca’s historic landmarks. The Douro River Valley showcased breathtaking landscapes and centuries-old wine production, and the Viking Torgil was perfectly designed to allow close appreciation of the river’s beauty.
Day 1: Arrival in Lisbon
My adventure commenced in Lisbon, a city celebrated for its lively culture and historical allure. The energetic Alfama district, with its intricate streets and soulful Fado music, set a captivating atmosphere for my journey. I also explored the Belem district, home to iconic landmarks such as Belem Tower and the Jeronimos Monastery, providing insight into Portugal’s illustrious past.
Day 2: Lisbon Monuments and Day Trips to Sintra and Cascais
I started my day in Lisbon with a panoramic drive that included stops at the Monument to the Discoveries, Belem Tower, and the UNESCO-listed Jeronimos Monastery. We also briefly visited Eduardo VII Park for scenic views of the Tagus River and St. George Castle. After enjoying some free time, I took a day trip to Sintra and Cascais. Sintra, adorned with romantic palaces and lush gardens, felt like a fairy tale. The vibrant Pena Palace, located on a hill, provided stunning views of the countryside. It was here that I savored my first pastel de nata, a delightful treat originally made by monks from leftover egg yolks.
Cascais, a picturesque coastal town, offered a refreshing contrast with its splendid beaches and tranquil ambiance. I leisurely walked along the marina, enjoyed the views from Boca do Inferno, and relished a traditional Portuguese meal of grilled octopus paired with garlic, olive oil, and broccoli at a local dining spot.
Day 3: Coimbra and Porto
En route to Porto, I visited Coimbra, one of Portugal’s oldest cities, famed for its medieval university. Coimbra is cherished by the Portuguese as the birthplace of six kings. I toured the Santa Clara-a-Velha convent and climbed to the university, which preserves 700 years of learning. The library with its vast collection of 300,000 books and the baroque organ in the chapel stood out during my visit. Following a lunch of fado music, I proceeded to Porto.
Day 4: Régua and Pinhão
In Régua, perched over the Douro River, I explored the core of Portugal’s wine-making region. At Casa do Douro, I admired exquisite stained glass and learned about the history of port wine in the area, framed by the stunning Serra do Marão mountains.
Later, I visited Pinhão, known as the heart of port wine production, where I toured several quintas, gaining insights into the wine-making process and sampling local varieties amidst idyllic vineyards. A highlight was visiting the Mateus Palace, famous for its baroque architecture, which also graces wine labels. The impressive grand stairway and manicured gardens left a lasting impression. The day concluded with a wine tasting at a local quinta, enhancing my appreciation for port wine.
Day 5: Barca d’Alva and Castelo Rodrigo
Barca d’Alva, the last Portuguese town along the Douro River before reaching the Spanish border, is enveloped by cherry, almond, and olive orchards, with scenic terraced vineyards providing stunning views. Its quaint cafés and scenic riverbanks exude a peaceful charm.
I ventured into the scenic countryside to visit the hilltop Castelo Rodrigo, a historic fortress town that has held National Monument status since 1922. Named after its castle, the town features a labyrinth of cobblestone streets and 16th-century homes, complete with distinctive Portuguese Manueline-style windows. I explored Sinagoga Street, a poignant reminder of the Jewish community that once sought refuge here during the Spanish Inquisition, and visited a local church before returning to the ship.
Day 6: Salamanca, Spain
After crossing into Spain, I discovered Salamanca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its well-preserved architecture. Founded by a Celtic tribe prior to Roman influence, Salamanca is home to one of Europe’s oldest universities, established in 1134. The main square, bustling with students, is often lauded as the most beautiful in Spain. My tour took me to the University of Salamanca, the House of Shells, and the New Cathedral.
During my free time, I immersed myself in local flavors, enjoying traditional tapas, churros dipped in rich chocolate, and a hearty meal of paella paired with sangria, enhancing my Salamanca experience with its culinary delights.
Day 7: Pinhão and Régua
Pinhão, nestled within the terraced hills of the Douro River Valley, offers a serene atmosphere vital to the port wine industry. I enjoyed a leisurely stroll along the picturesque river promenade.
Our first stop was Favaios, a village celebrated for its bread-making traditions. I visited one of the last bakeries in the Douro Valley that still uses wood and old grapevines to heat its ovens. Sampling the freshly baked bread was a memorable highlight, and the local wine and bread museum provided a fascinating glimpse into the region’s customs.
We continued to Sandeman’s winery, a prestigious name in port wine. The winding roads revealed breathtaking views of the Douro Valley, and the winery tour offered a fascinating behind-the-scenes look at winemaking, enriched by stunning vistas.
Day 8: Lamego
In Lamego, I visited the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies, an 18th-century baroque chapel located on a hilltop. As a popular pilgrimage site, many devout visitors traditionally crawl up the 686 steps as a penance, similar to practices at Fátima.
Feeling inspired by this ritual, I chose to ascend the entire staircase, climbing up and down three times for a total of 2,000 steps—a rewarding endeavor for the spectacular views it offered. Afterwards, I explored Lamego’s Gothic cathedral and browsed local shops for artisanal crafts.
Day 9: Porto
Porto, rich in historical significance and culture, has been shaped by the Douro River and the port wine trade. The city’s prosperity was historically linked to the barcos rabelos, single-masted boats that once transported wine. Even though these boats are now retired, they still adorn the river’s edge, maintaining Porto’s charm.
I spent my day exploring Porto on foot, starting with a walk across the iconic Luís I Bridge. Next, I visited Porto Cathedral, a 12th-century Romanesque structure known for its beautiful stonework and tranquil ambiance.
I briefly stopped at São Bento train station, famous for its blue and white tile panels depicting Portugal’s history. Although it was less impressive than expected, it remains a valued part of the city’s architectural heritage. I wandered down Rua das Flores, Porto’s most famous street, and concluded the day with a leisurely walk along Ribeira’s riverfront, soaking up views of the Douro River and the distinctive character of Porto.
A Personal Touch: An Expat’s Journey
Julie Hosch from St. Paul recounted her transformation after leaving behind a 26-year career. Following a life-changing cruise on the Danube, she decided she did not want to return to her job. “One Friday night, with a glass of wine in hand, I made my decision. By Monday, I walked into HR, handed in my badge, and quit. I felt relief instantly.”
Inspired by International Living magazine, Julie was enticed by the prospect of retiring in Portugal. Despite having never visited, the allure of the European lifestyle drew her in. She joined a Facebook group for Americans in Portugal and began the intricate process of moving abroad.
Adjusting to life in Lisbon proved challenging. “The city’s reserved nature starkly contrasted the friendliness I was accustomed to in Minnesota, leading to sleepless nights where I questioned my choice.” However, over time, Julie adapted, moving from the bustling city center to the quieter Belém neighborhood. “Daily strolls by the river, past the Belem Tower and Jeronimos Monastery, became an enjoyable routine.”
Building friendships required effort, but through local gatherings, Julie established a community of locals and fellow expats. Despite facing challenges, including the language barrier, she now feels at home. Reflecting on her journey over a year later, Julie expresses pride in “embracing the freedom and beauty of my new life in Portugal.”
Conclusion
The “Portugal’s River of Gold” cruise provided a remarkable fusion of historical exploration, cultural immersion, and personal growth. From the lively streets of Lisbon to the tranquil vineyards of the Douro Valley and the historical charm of Salamanca, this journey produced countless memorable moments. It stands out as my favorite trip in years, encapsulating the essence of travel—exploration, learning, and above all, living fully.