As the evening settled over Paris during the sixth day of Paris Fashion Week, Pierpaolo Piccioli debuted his second collection as the creative director of Balenciaga. Appointed in May 2025 after the departure of Demna, who is currently with Gucci, Piccioli’s latest showcase attracted notable personalities such as Naomi Watts, Lori Harvey, and Winona Ryder. This season’s collection, entitled “ClairObscur,” was designed in collaboration with filmmaker Sam Levinson and unfolded against a backdrop featuring scenes from the forthcoming third season of the hit series “Euphoria.”
The collection aimed to explore the architectural essence of Balenciaga, featuring models adorned in structured coats and skirts, draped dresses paired with leather opera gloves, chunky statement sneakers, and futuristic crystallized sunglasses. Iconic accessories such as the Rodeo and City handbags were also prominently displayed.
However, the reception from fashion enthusiasts was overwhelmingly critical. Members of theFashionSpot’s forum expressed their disappointment with remarks such as “one of the worst collections of all times shown at a big maison” and criticized the collection as “bloated” and lacking originality. Several commentators lamented that the designs felt uninspired, describing the presentation as “boring” and “void of passion.” Others even compared the execution to fast fashion brands, suggesting a disconnect from the luxury ethos expected from Balenciaga.
Despite the harsh feedback, this polarizing moment in fashion highlights the ever-evolving nature of design and creativity in the industry. Time will tell how Piccioli will respond to these critiques and what this means for his future endeavors at Balenciaga. The conversation surrounding this collection emphasizes the passion and high expectations that accompany iconic fashion houses, inviting dialogue about innovation and the direction of contemporary fashion.