American climber Sasha DiGiulian has made history by becoming the first woman to free climb the longest route on Yosemite’s El Capitan, known as the Platinum Wall. The formidable ascent spanned 23 days, during which DiGiulian faced extreme weather conditions, including relentless storms that brought heavy rain, snow, and fierce winds. For nine of those days, she was confined to a portaledge, a suspended tent that allowed her to rest while exposed to the elements.
This achievement marks a significant moment in DiGiulian’s illustrious career. “It’s the proudest climb of my career. I can’t believe it!” she shared from the summit, despite grappling with swollen, taped fingertips. The 914-meter (3,000 feet) wall had previously never been summited by a woman in a single effort, showcasing DiGiulian’s determination and resilience.
The Platinum Wall, consisting of 39 pitches established between 2009 and 2017 by climbers Rob ‘Platinum’ Miller, Elliot Faber, and Jay ‘Shaggy’ Selvidge, is categorized by its exceptional difficulty. Although Miller first completed the route, he did not free climb every pitch in one go. The first free ascent occurred in 2017, accomplished by Miller and Swiss climber Roby Rudolph over a period of 14 days. Miller expressed his support for DiGiulian’s historic ascent, emphasizing that her achievement not only propels her own legacy but also inspires others in the climbing community.
DiGiulian’s preparation for this climb began over three seasons, wherein she practiced the challenging first two-thirds of the route before attempting to master the upper segment. Her journey began on November 2 and culminated on November 26, when she reached the top to find clear skies and melting snow.
Throughout her ascent, DiGiulian remained in contact with other renowned climbers like Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell, sharing her experiences of enduring the harsh weather. She communicated daily updates from her portaledge, describing the cold and wet conditions as well as expressing her hope when the storms eventually subsided.
In this remarkable endeavor, she became only the fourth team to successfully climb the Platinum Wall. Following her ascent, previous climbers such as Germans Tobias Wolf and Thomas Hering, along with Honnold and Caldwell, also completed the route. Despite the increasingly treacherous weather, DiGiulian pressed on through extremely challenging crux pitches, demonstrating extraordinary tenacity.
Among the most demanding aspects of the Platinum Wall are its unique features, including several pitches rated 5.13. DiGiulian led 27 out of 40 pitches, overcoming some of the hardest climbs along the way. Miller reflected on the intensity of the final climb, understanding that tackling El Capitan means confronting ever-steeper challenges as climbers near the summit.
DiGiulian’s exceptional skills are complemented by her trailblazing role in climbing. At just 33, she is the holder of an Overall Female World Champion title, was undefeated in the Pan American Championships for a decade, and is the first woman to ascend a 5.14d route. With numerous high-difficulty climbs to her credit, she continues to push the boundaries within her sport. Additionally, she has recently published a memoir and is actively involved in other ventures, including founding an energy bar company.
Sasha DiGiulian’s successful conquest of the Platinum Wall is not just a personal triumph; it is a testament to her dedication, strength, and indomitable spirit as she continues to inspire future generations in the climbing community.