It is the peak of white truffle season in Croatia, and Ivana Karlic Ban is eagerly exploring the picturesque autumn landscapes of the northwestern Istria region in search of the coveted delicacy. The white truffle, which is a rare underground fungus that thrives in symbiosis with certain trees, is primarily found in Italy and Croatia from September to December.
Karlic Ban utilizes her two Lagotto Romagnolo dogs, known for their exceptional truffle-hunting skills, to sniff out these prized fungi, which can be buried as deep as one meter in the ground. “The white truffle is very rare, with prices soaring between 6,000 euros to 7,000 euros ($6,997 to $8,163) per kilogram,” she explained. Unlike the more commonly cultivated black truffles, which are harvested year-round and thus are much more affordable, white truffles evade cultivation and maintain their luxurious allure.
A third-generation truffle hunter, Karlic Ban runs a shop with her brother in the village of Paladini near Buzet, where they offer an array of truffle-infused products. Among their innovations are the world’s first chocolate truffles and specially crafted treats for dogs, highlighting their creative approach to this gourmet ingredient.
However, Karlic Ban points out that the population of white truffles has diminished significantly compared to when her grandfather hunted them half a century ago. This decline is attributed to climate change and deforestation, which severely impact the truffles’ natural habitat. She stated, “Too harsh droughts prevent the fungus from growing while too hard rains make it soft and rotten.” Consequently, the decline in truffle numbers has paradoxically led to a rise in their market value.
The story of truffle hunting in Istria not only reflects the region’s rich gastronomic heritage but also invites a conversation about the broader impact of environmental changes on local food sources. As demand for truffles continues to grow, both hunters and consumers are encouraged to foster sustainable practices that can help preserve these gourmet treasures for future generations.